hey yes ofcourse you can have a look and will for sure like this because vegetable gardening is also covered in this and you will enhance your knwoledge by this too....
i would like to add that vegetable gardening along with fruits gardening is very much important so you have to make sure that it is well written...you can also add anything on this topic if you want

Moonflowers are relatives of the morning glory which is well known for its self-seeding habits. To start seeds indoors, you'll need to begin 4-6 weeks before your last frost. First scarify the seeds by nicking the seed coat with a knife or rubbing the seeds between sheets of sand paper. Soak the seeds overnight in warm water, then plant the seeds in peat pots. You may also be able to scatter seeds on the ground where you want them to grow after your last frost in the spring. Rake them in gently, and keep them watered until they're growing well. Just know that if the seeds you are growing were from a hybrid plant, then the seedlings you see the next year may not look exactly the same as their parents. Good luck and have fun!

My book says the tubers should be lifted around the first frost and stored in a frost-free spot such as a basement or garage over the winter. I've overwintered my wax begonias in the house, and they do fine foliage-wise, but it sounds like the tuberous variety is going to die back until next spring no matter what you do. At this point you should just store them like you would any overwintering bulb.

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We just bought a house and it had a line of some kind of a bush, crepe mrytle, two some kind of a bush and an evergreen shrub. Of course, there were a couple of stink weed trees in there. Anyway we had them trimmed up and the only things that are worth keeping is the crepe mrytle and the evergreen. I was thinking about putting in new bushes to have a "fence" appearance but I have changed my mind.

So I am looking for suggestions on what to plant around the crepe mrytle. Looking forward to your suggestions.

I have to say that I was a bit indifferent to what went on my hands during my green toiling, but because of just how durable, comfortable, and, yes, pretty these gloves I have are, I'm singing a different tune. They consist of a pair of peach-colored, high performance glovies (that is, very nice women garden gloves ) made by 'toughtek', and I wonder if this brand/style is old or new news amongst gardeners. Anyone else hear of em?

Happy Holidays!! :grin:

North Dakota State University has a nice writeup on thistles. However, some parts get a little technical, so I'll try to summarize a bit here.

Thistles are either biennial or perennial. The biennial varieties are easier to control. NDSU has some good pictures so you can try to identify what type you are dealing with. Biennial thistles germinate during the summer and fall, overwinter as a rosette of leaves, then grow, flower, set seed and die during the following year. They have a fairly short root system and only reproduce through seed. Your best bet to control biennial thistles is to prevent them from setting seed. Either cut back the stems before the flower buds are formed, or dig up or spray the rosettes in the fall or spring.

Perennial thistle is much harder to control. It reproduces through its seeds and its roots. Both seed production and the root system must be attacked in order to attempt to control these weeds. Unfortunately, perennial thistle roots can grow up to 10' deep into the soil and up to 15' laterally. Root pieces as small as 0.6" (about 2cm) can produce new shoots. Control methods indicated on the NDSU website included: Cut back/mow stems as close to the soil line as possible before flowering. Stems that are cut too high may resprout multiple stems from the remaining nodes. Also, regular tilling of the soil may help. The soil must be repeatedly tilled throughout the growing season each time the thistle growth approaches 3" (7.5cm) in height. This should eventually deplete the energy reserves in the root system if you are persistent.

Lastly, it seems like thistle seeds do not sprout well when they are crowded, so selecting a thickly growing grass seed for your lawn, or a thick layer of heavy mulch for your garden beds may help. Don't forget: even if you manage to control the plants you have now and prevent them from reseeding, there may be a large store of unsprouted seed still in your soil. This unsprouted seed can remain viable in the soil for over a decade, so no matter what, you'll need to plan for a long-term, persistent system of weed control.
Good luck!

TN Nursery is a state certified tree nursery specializing in native plants and trees, shrubs, fern, and perennials as well as pond plants and wetland mitigation species. www.tnnursery.net

Your sun and water conditions sound fine. I'd probably stop using the general fertilizer. It sounds like your bulbs may be getting too much nitrogen which would cause great foliage growth with few or no blooms. If you really feel that your plants need something in addition to the bulb fertilizer, a handful of compost might be a better idea. Better luck next year!

Have you just tried to pull out the plant by the leaves instead of digging up the rhizomes (roots)?